Depending on which camp you belong to, you either find its strong aroma putrid or alluring. It’s a mystery how something so awful in the looks department could taste like pure heaven. – from an earlier post, Durian Puff
I don’t know about you but I’ve never met a swiss roll I didn’t like. I’ve also never refused anything with durian shoved in my face, much less the killer combo of ‘Durian Swiss Roll’ which should be crowned with the first-ever Nobel Prize for cake in my humble opinion. Can you think of a fruit with more character than the controversial green and thorny King Of Spikes? If you’re afraid of it, that’s because it rules with such absolute tyranny: either striking such fear into the hearts of all who don’t endear themselves to it (so that they flee as soon as they catch a whiff of its royal presence) or causing a stampede amongst its diehard fans as each fight the other for a morsel of that pudding-like, creamy, heady-smelling heavenliness.
With April finally upon us and a step closer to our real autumn season here, I don’t know a better dessert to accompany the comfort food we’ve come to associate with the cool weather change. Of course it helps if you’re a lover of durian but in case you’re not, you can always shack up with some other regular swiss roll flavours (such as Green Tea), but trust me, there’s nothing like quite like a Durian Swiss Roll to rock your tastebuds at least once in your lifetime. You might never look back.
Recipe for Durian Swiss Roll
I used a great recipe for a basic Vanilla Swiss Roll which I adapted from the amazing novelty swiss roll recipe book ‘Deco Roll Cakes’ by the sensationally talented Japanese blogger Junko, famous for her ‘kawaii’ deco rolls—think ‘swiss roll art’. However, I substituted the vegetable oil in her recipe with unsalted butter instead, just out of personal preference. I’ve been rather skeptical about vegetable oil and vegetable shortening in recent years and now prefer to return to using natural dairy butter which so many are afraid of due to its fat content. Butter is really is so much less processed than the artificial alternatives we are being offered today by marketing ploys to fool us into ‘eating healthy’. Much of the low fat stuff on shelves are laden with more sugar than ever and actually negates the lower ‘fat’ content of the supposedly healthier product. You get what I mean. I’m going natural just to stay safe!
EGG YOLK PORTION
4 egg yolks
40g castor sugar
40ml vegetable oil (I used 50g butter instead)
1 tsp vanilla extract
80g cake flour
4 egg whites
40g castor sugar
1 tsp corn flour
100 ml thickened cream (to whip)
1 T sugar
1 C durian flesh (pureed)
*start by making the filling to chill beforehand.
Directions for durian filling:
Beat the whipped cream with the sugar till it gets thick and fluffy. Add the pureed durian flesh and whisk it again until evenly mixed. Chill in the refrigerator until you are ready to assemble swiss roll.
Directions for swiss roll:
Preheat oven to 170 degrees. Line and grease a rectangular swiss roll pan (I used a 10” x 12” pan).
In a separate mixing bowl (with the yolks only), use a handheld whisk to beat the yolks and the castor sugar to a thick and pale consistency.
In your mixer stand using the whisk attachment, whisk the egg whites on medium speed, adding the sugar gradually followed by the cornflour and whisk it to stiff peaks. Fold into the whisked egg yolk portion gradually.
Sift and fold in the flour into the mixture, adding the melted butter last. Transfer the batter into the swiss roll pan, taking care to evenly spread the batter right up to the edges and corners. Tap the baking pan against your kitchen countertop a couple of times to remove any trapped air bubbles. I usually prick visible bubbles using a little toothpick.
Bake for about 10 minutes. Remove from oven. Tip swiss roll onto a new sheet of parchment paper, facing down on a wire rack to cool. Peel parchment paper from bottom of the swiss roll.
Directions for assembling the swiss roll:
Once it is cool to the touch, it’s ready to assemble. I like to make a straight slit down the first inch from the edge closest to me using a knife. It just eases the rolling bit! Spread the filling as evenly as you can. Roll it up and wrap away from you and then wrap the roll with cling wrap followed by a tea towel to hold its shape. If you like, you could sprinkle castor sugar on the outside of the roll. It’s fine on its own but my kids miss and just love one of those sugar rolls commonly sold in Singapore especially the ones from Polar Cakes. Refrigerate for at least 1-2 hours before serving for the flavours to infuse. It’s also best eaten chilled!
— Kat Ngoi (@katngoi) April 10, 2016