Its pong. I love it. Others flee from it or duck to take cover when its unmistakable aroma wafts through the air (I drop whatever I’m doing and run towards it). That aroma arrests you—so that you smell it even before you can see it—such is the commanding presence of the King of Fruits, the mighty Durian. Think about it. Would there be any other kind of fruit in this world that can polarise lovers and haters into different camps like religion or politics? I wonder if it could substitute as ‘chemical weaponry’ in military battles. Maybe not such a good idea if the soldiers using it are going to be distracted or salivating in battle—but talk about a disarming fruit!
Besides the real thing—gobbling a mouthful of one of its pale yellow, silky, creamy custardy flesh, the only best way to enjoy durian (to me anyway) is perhaps in its many forms as a durian dessert concoction. I’d say of all these my favourite has to be Durian ice-cream. If I’m going to get a brain freeze, why not get an ice-cold hit of durian! If you can get hold of fresh durian, you’re my envy and durian ice-cream making is definitely the best way to put any leftover durians to good use! (I never had the issue of leftovers P.S. Give me a holler if you do, ha)
When I was kid, I would often cool off on hot humid afternoons with one of those cylindrical durian ice-cream popsicles on bamboo skewers. The ice-cream ‘uncle’ on his motorcycle helmet and ‘refrigerated side car’ even knew my other favourites were more of the same in red bean and corn. He was almost sorry for me whenever he was sold out on durian! I was either blinded by the sun or his dazzling gold teeth grin but I somehow never left without at least 2 flavours in hand. One to eat and one to keep for later. Come to think of it—I should attempt to make some Durian, Red Bean or Corn popsicles! You’ll be hearing about it!
As promised in my last post on Durian Puff (click here for the recipe and more of my durian exploits), here’s the coveted durian ice-cream recipe my friends have tasted and have been hankering for! You’re welcome. I know I’m a dear.
Just store this in a good ice-cream container with a well-fitting lid unless you want your whole freezer smelling of durian…mmmnn
You may also like a recipe for Durian Swiss Roll
Durian flesh, from about 5-6 large seeds or more
120gm sugar + 2TB sugar in yolks
4 egg yolks
200g full cream milk
300g pure cream
Directions for durian ice-cream:
1. Peel off durian flesh from seeds of about 3-4 segments of the whole fruit. If using frozen, use at least 5-6 large pieces for best effect. Puree the durian flesh in a processor till it is as fine as you can get it (you’re aiming for a thick durian creme, not pulp).
2. Whisk egg yolks with sugar into a custard—should look paler and thicker in consistency.
3.Gently heat full cream milk and cream in a small saucepan but do not let mixture boil (80 degrees is best)Let it cool just slightly.
5.Temper the custard with a ladle of the boiled cream and milk mixture, then add entire custard mixture into heated milk in saucepan.Stir and boil till 80 deg if you have a thermometer or use the ‘wooden spoon test’: when you run a finger down the back of the wooden spoon, you should see a clear line down where you’ve just run your finger across. It should appear like the consistency of a thick broth of creamy soup.
6. Add the durian pulp into the mixture and give whisk it in lightly to blend it.
7. Pour into a strainer or sieve sitting on container in an ice bath. Use the back of a spoon to press against the strainer (to do this easily). If you skip this step, you’ll get lumps of pulp which doesn’t make for a smooth durian ice-cream texture.
8. Refrigerate mixture for 4 hours or overnight then churn in ice-cream machine.